Thick, unblended foundation on bark Foundation is a fluid, skim, or powder makeup applied to the face and neck to create an even, consistent color to the complexion, cover flaws and, sometimes, to change the lifelike skin tone. Some foundations besides function as a moisturizer, sunscreen, acerb or base level for more complex cosmetics. Foundation applied to the torso is by and large referred to as “ body painting “ or “ body makeup ”.
Reading: Foundation (cosmetics) – Wikipedia
history [edit ]
The use of cosmetics to enhance complexion reaches back into ancientness. “ Face painting ” is mentioned in the Old Testament ( Ezekiel 23:40 ). ancient Egyptians used foundation garment. In 200 B.C., ancient greek women applied blank lead powder and methamphetamine to lighten their clamber. It was considered fashionable for greek women to have a picket complexion. Roman women besides favoured a pale complexion. affluent Romans favoured white head paste, which could lead to disfigurements and death. Men besides wore makeup to lighten their skin tone ; using white go powderize, chalk, and creams. [ 1 ] The cream was made from animal fat, starch, and tin oxide. [ 2 ] The fatty was rendered from animal carcasses and heated to remove the color. Tin oxide was made out of heating can metallic in the overt tune. The animal fat provided a polish texture, while the can oxide provided color to the cream. [ 3 ] Throughout the Middle Ages in Europe, it was considered fashionable for women to have picket skin, due to the association of tan clamber with outdoors work, and consequently the association of pale skin with affluence. In the sixth century, women would much bleed themselves to achieve a pale complexion. [ 4 ] During the italian Renaissance, many women applied water-soluble moderate paint to their faces. Throughout the seventeenth century and the Elizabethan era, women wore white lead, a deadly mixture of vinegar and ashen go. They besides applied egg whites to their faces to create a glistening complexion. [ 5 ] many men and women died from wearing lead-based constitution. In the eighteenth hundred, Louis XV made it fashionable for men to wear lead-based constitution. [ 1 ] Theatrical actors wore heavy white foundation. [ 6 ] In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, priggish women wore little or no makeup. king Victoria abhorred makeup and deemed that it was only appropriate for prostitutes and loose women to wear it. It was only satisfactory for actors or actresses to wear makeup. In the former nineteenth hundred, women would apply a whiten assortment made out of zinc oxide, mercury, jumper cable, nitrate of silver, and acids. Some women stayed out of the sun, eat chalk, and drink iodine to achieve whiteness. [ 4 ] In the edwardian earned run average, women wore a base and did not bleach their skin adenine much as they did in previous centuries. [ 7 ] advanced foundation can trace its roots to Carl Baudin of the Leipziger Stadt field in Germany. He is the inventor of greasepaint. He wanted to conceal the joint between his wig and frontal bone, so he developed a flesh-colored glue made of zinc white, ocher, and vermilion in lard. This formulation was sol popular with other actors that Baudin began producing it commercially, and, as such, gave give birth to the first theatrical performance constitution. [ 8 ] [ 9 ] This would be the standard for theatrical performance make-up until 1914 when makeup artist Max Factor created Flexible Greasepaint that was more reflective of the lighting on movie sets. [ 10 ] Although makeup would evolve dramatically from Baudin ‘s invention, theatrical makeup is, to this day, not excessively army for the liberation of rwanda removed from the original blend of fats and pigment .
The first commercially available foundation was Max Factor ‘s Pan-Cake. Originally developed for manipulation in film, actresses were so taken with the results that Max Factor was overwhelmed with demand for the product for their personal use. The breakthrough in his formula was the beginning “ foundation and powder in one ” ; traditionally, an actor was made up with an oil/ demulcent -based makeup, which was then set with powder to reduce the reflection and ensure it would not fade or smudge. Pan-Cake used talc —rather than oil or wax—as the base, and, applied immediately to the hide with a wet quick study, it offered enough coverage ( it could be layered without caking on the skin ) to eliminate the indigence for a foundation garment underneath. This was considered significantly more lightweight and natural-looking on the skin than the standard method acting, hence people ‘s eagerness to wear the detail in public. Although foundation makeup was wide available and used within the film industry, the consumption of cosmetics, in general, was still slightly disreputable, and no one had tried to market foundation ( although lipstick, blush and nail polish were popular for casual use ) as an everyday item. factor had the product patented in 1937, and, despite the economic convulsion of the era, Pan-Cake became one of the most successful cosmetic launches of all time. By 1940, it was estimated that one in three north american english women owned and wore Pan-Cake. [ 11 ] As of February 2009, Procter and Gamble, the brand ‘s stream owner, confirmed that the original recipe that Factor developed and used himself, is distillery sold nowadays. [ citation needed ]
modern formulations [edit ]
discolor [edit ]
color may be identified by a name, count, letter, or any combination of the three. however, unlike the Pantone or Munsell systems used in the art and fashion industries, commercial cosmetic product names are not standardized. If a makeup artist requests a “ Medium Beige ” foundation, the resultant role can vary drastically from brand to post, and sometimes, within one brand across unlike formulas. cosmetic companies can besides edit and adjust their formulations at any time, resulting in the ‘Medium Beige ‘ foundation a consumer has been wearing for years becoming a slenderly different nuance or color without anterior notice.
Color categorization [edit ]
cosmetic companies classify their foundations Warm, Neutral, Olive, or Cool based on matching the skin tonicity of the wearer. A handful of professional lines, such as William Tuttle, Ben Nye, Visiora, M.A.C., and tied Max Factor, do the opposition, naming their shades based on ‘cancelling out ‘ the wearer ‘s natural skin tone so they do not become excessively warm/cool toned in the lend oneself areas. In early words, with some professional lines, a warm bark would choose a cool foundation, and a cool skin would wear a warm foundation. The deviation in naming is not attributed to unlike definitions of warmly and cool on the color rack .
choice [edit ]
Although most artists differ over the significance of selecting an exact catch to the wearer ‘s hide tone, intentionally using a mismatch can achieve the coveted leave. An excessively red complexion can be minimized by using a neutral ( meaning neither jaundiced nor pink ) beige toned foundation. A sallow or pale complexion can be brightened with a rose to red tint, mature skin that has lost its color and appears pale and dull can be brightened with a tint of clear tap, and olive or “ ash-grey ” bark can be brightened with a shoot of peach. A all-important charge in selecting a basis shade is to recognize that the appearance of the tad in the container may not accurately gauge the color impact on the skin – a foundation garment that appears very yellow in the bottle may apply much less jaundiced, or not appear jaundiced at all. Trying the color on in stores like Ulta or Sephora is normally the best way to find an accurate match .
Shade compass [edit ]
Another topic that can arise when searching for a basis tad is an inability to find a shade that suits the wearer. This may be because the prospective drug user can not tell the undertone of their skin, but it can besides be from available products not being light or colored enough to properly match the exploiter ‘s skin spirit. Some examples of brands that have wide shadow ranges are Fenty Beauty, Bobbi Brown, Hourglass, Maybelline, Nars, and Makeup Forever. [ 12 ] When switching from brand to stigmatize, consumers must be mindful of like shade names for different colors, since the cosmetic diligence does not use the Munsell color system. It has been noted that cosmetics brands like Tarte, Beauty Blender, Yves Saint Laurent, and It Cosmetics have limited nuance ranges – frequently making it unmanageable for individuals with dark skin tones to find a proper match. [ 13 ] Time magazine recognized Fenty Beauty ‘s foundation range “ made for women of all skin colors and undertones ”, featuring 40 shades, for addressing these issues by putting it on their 25 Best Inventions of 2017 number. [ 14 ] The use of color corrector products can besides help to reduce stain .
coverage [edit ]
coverage refers to the opacity of the makeup, or how much it will conceal on the skin .
- Sheer is the most transparent and contains the least amount of pigment. It will not hide discolorations on the skin but it can minimize the contrast between the discoloration and the rest of the skin tone. Although pigment technology has evolved dramatically since 2004, the traditional protocol for sheer foundations called for the pigment to comprise 8–13% of the finished formula.
- Light can cover unevenness and slight blotchiness but is not opaque enough to cover freckles. It contains 13–18% pigment.
- Medium coverage can when set with a tinted (instead of translucent) powder, cover freckles, discolorations, blotchiness, and red marks left by pimples. It contains 18–23% pigment.
- Full coverage is very opaque and used to cover birthmarks, vitiligo, hyperpigmentation, and scars. It is sometimes referred to as “corrective” or “camouflage” make-up. In general, it contains up to 35% pigment, though professional brands, designed for use on stage, can contain up to 50% pigment.
There are assorted tools that can be used to apply foundation garment including your fingers, a sponge, and respective varieties of foundation brushes, each providing a different finish. Before applying foundation always start with clean and humidify bark. Dry and flaky skin patches will frequently be highlighted when base makeup is applied so users should exfoliate their skin beginning if necessary .
- Fingers: Using one’s fingers can be useful for creating a natural look. The natural body heat given off by fingers helps the foundation to melt into the skin and makes it easy to blend in a sheer layer of makeup. However, using fingers isn’t recommended for applying full coverage foundation as it will create a streaky and uneven appearance.
- Sponge: Using a sponge to apply foundation is best for creating a look with sheer to medium coverage. A triangular sponge is good for blending in liquid foundation and concealer, whilst a rounded sponge is best for powder foundations, though either can be used for these purposes. To use, wet a clean sponge with water first. The moisture will prevent the sponge from absorbing the makeup and will help to more evenly distribute the product over the skin- but make sure to squeeze out excess water. Sponges with pointed tips are best utilized for a seamless blending of the under-eye area and wide, round sponges are best for blending foundation over large flat areas of skin like the cheeks or forehead. Also, note that reusing sponges can be unhygienic, so sponges should be washed and dried thoroughly after every use.
- Brush: For liquid foundation, a brush with a synthetic bristle is recommended as the brush won’t soak up too much of the liquid. Alternatively, a natural bristle which is more porous works best for powder foundations and other powder face products. A densely bristled brush is best for applying foundation as it is less likely to leave streaky brush marks. As with all tools used to apply makeup to the face, brushes should be soft and gentle, as anything too stiff will scratch and irritate the skin.
- Airbrush: Liquid foundation is applied with an air stream. The airbrush mixes the foundation with a controllable stream of compressed air. It adheres to the skin as millions of tiny droplets of foundation. This technique can create an even, sheer appearance to the skin that, if applied properly, can appear natural and non-heavy or “cakey.” Airbrush makeup application is also frequently used in special effects makeup. Note that if liquid foundation is applied via airbrush too heavily, additional blending with a brush or sponge may be required.
conceptualization [edit ]
The formula refers to the ingredients blended in concert, and how the makeup is formulated.
- Oil and emollient-based are the oldest types of make-up. An oil (usually mineral oil) or emollient (such as petrolatum, beeswax, or lanolin) is used as the main ingredient, with pigment added to it. The texture and application are extremely thick and dense, most closely resembling modern lip balms or lipsticks. The extremely emollient nature stays moist and will not cake, is moderately waterproof, and provides the most opaque coverage; but it can smudge, fade, and change colour (darkening or oxidising) during wear. Since the 1970s, synthetic wax has also been used, which is less greasy and more reliable than other emollients. Used professionally, it is sometimes referred to as Greasepaint. Examples: Pan-Stik (Max Factor’s follow-up to his Pan-Cake make-up), Elizabeth Arden Sponge-On Cream, Mehron, Dermablend.
- Oil-based shakers are different from traditional oil-and-emollient-based makeup in that they were liquid foundations developed before emulsifiers and binding agent was available, and thus separate in the bottle, like the alcohol-based formulas mentioned below. Once shaken, this is akin to applying coloured oil to the skin, with a smooth texture that can provide medium coverage with a moist finish. Liquid foundation is applied using a damp makeup sponge and is especially effective around the eye.[ quotation needed] It was a marked improvement in application, stability, and finish over the traditional oil bases, but improvements since then have rendered these nearly extinct. Examples: Alexandra de Markoff Countess Isserlyn, Frances Denney Incandescent.
- Alcohol-based uses a blend of water and denatured alcohol as the base, with pigment added to it. Developed by Erno Laszlo for acne-prone skin, it eliminated emollient and binding agent that could clog pores and needs to be shaken before use. Alcohol-based foundations have the most lightweight, “nothing on my face” feel, and nearly impossible to clog pores, but provide only the sheerest coverage and can be tricky to apply and blend. They work better with cotton balls or pads, instead of latex or sea sponges. Examples: Erno Laszlo Normalizer Shake-It, Clinique Pore Minimizer.
- Powder-based began with Max Factor’s Pan Cake, using powder – usually talc – as the main ingredient. The pigment is added, along emollients, skin adhesion agents, and binding agents to the formula before it is pressed into pans. The difference between this type of foundation and pressed powder is that this provides more coverage (due to more pigment), and contains more skin adhesion agents (to help it stick to the skin – because the pressed powder is lighter weight, it requires less). Some formulas – such as Pan Cake – also contain wax, and can only be applied with a wet sponge; others, such as M.A.C. StudioFix, contain no emollient, and can only be used dry; the last group, such as Lançome Dual Finish, contain a smaller amount of oil and can be used either way. This provides a “finished” look and can blend from sheer to nearly full coverage, but can look too floury and dry, especially around the eyes, or on drier/mature skin. They can also flake and trickle down as they are applied and blended.
- Mineral makeup most commonly refers to a foundation in loose powder format. The most common minerals used as the base are mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide. However, talc is also a mineral, so a talc-based powder could be considered a “mineral makeup” — although most mineral makeup sold makes a point of being talc-free. A “mineral make-up” may be all mineral, part mineral – or contain less than 1% mineral as part of the finished formula. Using this logic, practically all make-up could be considered mineral.
- Water-based makeup appeared after the end of World War II, with emulsifiers that could successfully keep a water-and-oil blended emulsion stable being the key to their development. This creamy liquid provided medium coverage with a far more natural feel and appearance than oil, powder, or emollient bases of the time, and became popular with women since then. Examples include Cover Girl Clean Makeup, Estee Lauder Country Mist. Since then, variations on the formula have expanded the category significantly:
- Water-based cream make-up has a rich, creamy texture that can be sheer to full coverage with a moist, satiny finish. It usually comes in a jar or tube and is much more comfortable and realistic looking on the skin than the oil or emollient-based predecessors. Examples: Elizabeth Arden Hydro-Light, Guerlain Issima.
- Water-based oil-free eliminates oil altogether, but substitutes an emollient ester or fatty alcohol in the base, and adds a mattifying agent – usually clay — to dry to a flat, non-reflective (“matte”) finish. Oil-free liquids are quite thick and heavy, and the earliest versions took time to pour out of the bottle. They provide solid medium coverage but dry quickly, and can thus set before blended is complete. The result is streaking, which is then difficult to smooth out without starting over from scratch. The usual recommendation is to divide the face into quarter sections and to apply and blend the makeup over one section (rather than the entire face) at a time. Blending over moisturised skin with a wet sponge can also help compensate for the lack of slip. However, they will last a long time and resist smudging, even on very oily skin. Examples: Estee Lauder Fresh Air.
- Water-based transfer-resistant follows the same formulation as oil-free but uses a film former or polymer instead of (or in addition to) the clay to achieve a matte finish that resists being rubbed off. Transfer-resistant make-up was launched in 1993 by Revlon-owned Ultima II with Lipsexxxy, the first lip-colour that included film former to prevent rubbing off. By 1996, WonderWear foundation and Revlon Colorstay had been launched, using the same technology as the lipsticks. Transfer-resistant (sometimes called transfer-proof) makeup will last on very oily skin, skin that perspires heavily, or in humid climates longer than any other type of foundation, though it is even more difficult to apply than oil-free makeup. The thick texture dries almost instantly and requires a fair amount of experimentation to master. The most modern versions (such as Revlon Colorstay SoftFlex) have made marked improvements over predecessors in that regard.
- Silicone-based make-up uses a silicone — or a blend of water and silicone – as the main ingredient. The most typical silicones used are dimethicone, polysiloxane, and volatile silicones such as cyclomethicone and phenyl trimethicone. The silicone provides lubrication and viscosity (what some artists refer to as “slip”) at a level equal to, or often, even better than oil, allowing a product to apply and blend over the skin smoothly and evenly. Silicones have a lighter weight and are thus more comfortable on the skin, as well as resisting filling in lines or large pores on the face. Conventional silicones stay supple and smooth, even in dry climates, whereas volatile silicones last long enough to blend over the face, then evaporate (like alcohol), leaving little to no feel behind. Silicone-based makeups are less likely to oxidise or to change colour during wear. One of the biggest challenges facing silicone bases is the tendency for the product to break and/or ball up on the skin, something unique to silicones and out of control of the user. Ionizing the silicones (electrically charging the silicone positive) helps it adhere to (negatively charged) skin, although this technology is in its infancy and thus rather expensive. Examples: Maybelline Dream Matte Mousse.